11/12/2024

 

We were up fairly early for breakfast as we were to meet the mini-motor coach at 8:30. Breakfast is included and so we didn’t have to pay the 28 Euros for Paul’s salmon bennie. The weather was clear and in the 60’s.  Our tour guides met us at 8:30 and introduced themselves (Sara and Javier).  They will accompany us today and tomorrow. We got on the road forthwith and had no traffic issues leaving the city. That could not be said for those going into the city, however. Traffic looked like Atlanta on I-75 at 8 AM.

 

Once out of the city, the country became hillier and we saw occasional fields with cattle.  No fields of grain etc. were in evidence. About 45 minutes out of the city, our guide asked us to look to the left (luckily, we had a left window).

 

Valle de los Caisos (nee Valley of the Fallen)

 

Franco had this built after the Spanish Civil War to entomb some 35,000 Spaniards who lost their lives between 1932 and 1936. It is reportedly immense. However, it is not without controversy. Many are removing their loved ones from here and taking them elsewhere.  Franco was buried there, but 5 years ago they removed his remains to a cemetery near Madrid. Franco had named it the Valley of the Fallen and it was recently renamed Valle de los Caisos. Civil war wounds heal slowly … generationally.

 

We were treated to a lot of information about the politics past and present of Spain. The former king, Juan Carlos, currently lives in Saudi Arabia. He abdicated (amid controversy) to his son Felipe VI, the current king, who is quite popular. It’s complicated.

 

Soon we arrived at El Escorial.  It is a Monastery, a Palace, a Basilica, a museum. Phillip II built it as testimony to the greatness of Spain in the 1500’s. It is quite big.  We exited the bus and walked a long time to the far corner of the complex.  There our guide showed us the country as it would have looked in 1500 – bucolic.

 

El Escorial looking east

 

We were up in the mountains a bit and so it was cooler than in Madrid – one of the reasons Phillip II built it here. But here the sun was shining and it was very nice.

 

About to go in

 

We walked back to the main entrance and there had to go through security. Paul had to take off his belt, empty pockets as did everyone else.  They are serious about metal inside.

 

Going through security

 

Once through and out in the open, we were treated with a powerful view of the Basilica.  We took a group picture on the steps.

 

Our group

 

Inside the Basilica we saw the grandeur of old Spain. Portraits, statues and frescoes filled the very large apse and nave while the sanctuary was more than ornate top to bottom.

 

The high Altar

 

On the left and right of the altar were doors that led to the King’s and Queen’s chambers.  Above these doors were statues of the King’s family in a prayerful pose. Underneath the Altar (and to one side) they placed the crypt of the Kings and Queens of Spain from Carlos to the present day. They celebrate Mass on the high Altar every Sunday at 10, while daily masses are celebrated in one of the side chapels. The altar pieces were indicative of the era centered by Saint Lawrence’s torture.

 

We then made our way through the labyrinth of halls and stairs and courtyards to the area where the tombs of the Royal Family were arrayed, each with their respective crests and relation to the King. There were many rooms like this. Then we came to the Royal crypt.

 

One the way to the Royal Crypt

 

We descended 50 steps to the crypt. These tombs held only the bones of the deceased. When a royal died, the remains were allowed to decompose in separate rooms until all that was left were bones.  These were then placed in the ossuaries that were displayed in the Crypt. The monks were the ones who orchestrated all this.

 

We then wound our way to the Chapter houses.  This was a series of 3 rooms that the monks would use to work out all manner of things – it’s where they met to decide, argue, ponder etc.  Very beautiful interiors in evidence.

 

The Chapter Rooms

 

The tour then divided in two – those who wanted to brave 8 sets of (steep) 12 step stairways to the Library.  Paul, Shirley, Brian and Donna hiked up those stairs which were not as bad as advertised and were treated to an amazing room.

 

The library

 

There were a couple of oddities here: all the books were turned spine to the wall (this helps control the moisture), the books were in a great variety of languages (Hebrew, Arabic, Latin, Spanish), there were period globes showing the undiscovered lands of the Americas as well as celestial globes. 

 

After the library we exited the complex and made our way to lunch.  This was at Charoles.  Here is the very singular menu:

 

 

Charoles is the breed of beef cattle – in France they call them Charolais – Shirley’s dad used to raise them.  They are white and some say tastier than Angus, but that argument is for the connoisseurs. All that was ordered was pronounced very good.  Wine flowed as did the after-dinner dessert wine, Muscatel made by the monks. (This was NOT the muscatel we would see in the US.)

 

We then made the long bus ride back to the Hotel where we crashed a bit.  Heating pad and nap were in order.  Around 6-ish Shirley and I took to the streets in search of some tapas.  After consulting with the concierge, we made our way to the Santa Ana Square. We saw some nice, some old, some cozy and one bizarre establishment along the way.

 

The Rosi la Loca Bestia

 

On the square we found a quaint shop that had a picture of Churros.  This ended our search, and we entered, ordered and were sated with some tapas and Churros with Chocolate.

 

 

 

Churros

 

We took our time strolling back to the Hotel and said good night to Madrid.  7845 steps today – lots of stairs.